If you love both mountains and the sea, Taiwan’s east coast is perfect for a leisurely road trip. In the morning, you may be looking up at the sheer walls beside Qingshui Cliffs. Drive south at noon, and the view outside becomes an endless Pacific Ocean. At Shitiping, you can see rocks shaped by the waves up close; farther on at Sanxiantai, the coastline changes again.
There is one thing to remember when planning a Hualien trip now. After the 2024 earthquake, many familiar trails in Taroko Gorge are still under repair. Weather in eastern Taiwan can also change quickly, so the old plan of covering Shakadang, Swallow Grotto and the Tunnel of Nine Turns in one day no longer works. The good news is that this stretch of coast is still well worth visiting. Take a different route and it is just as beautiful.
A simple 2-day route: Spend day 1 in northern Hualien and at Qingshui Cliffs. On day 2, follow Highway 11 south at an easy pace, stopping at Shitiping, Jingpu and Sanxiantai. You will not need to rush from morning to night, and you will have room to adjust if roads are suddenly restricted.
A notice updated on October 22, 2026, on the mountain entry application website states that during the Typhoon Qiangbi sea warning, entry to Taroko’s ecological protection areas and other restricted areas, including the route below Hehuan West Peak toward Huagang, was suspended from 23:30 on October 21. Reopening depends on recovery after the warning is lifted. This does not mean every attraction in Hualien is closed. Trails, highways and coastal viewpoints must be checked separately. Before leaving, review the Taroko trail list and the Highway Bureau’s 168 traffic updates.
Why is Taroko Gorge so deep?
Taroko immediately brings to mind towering rock walls on both sides, with a river running far below. Where the Liwu River passes through narrow sections, the cliffs feel close enough to touch. Even photos make the terrain look steep.
The gorge is linked to Taiwan’s mountain-building process. Taiwan lies where the Eurasian Plate and Philippine Sea Plate meet. Long-term compression has slowly lifted the mountains, while the Liwu River has carried sediment downstream and cut into the rock. As the mountains rose and the river cut down, the height difference grew.
Taroko is best known for marble. Its story began in an ancient sea: calcium-carbonate-rich sediment first became limestone, then high temperature and pressure transformed it into the marble visible today. The light and dark patterns on the cliffs record how the rock was compressed.
Taroko is not made entirely of marble. Nearby layers include schist and other rocks. A valley’s width, cliff color and slope vary with the rock’s properties, so the scenery can change completely around a single bend on the same mountain road.
Rockfalls, earthquakes and torrential rain have always shaped these gorges. Today’s trail restrictions are part of what travelers must plan around. Finding places that are genuinely open matters more than forcing your way to an old photo spot.
Can you visit Taroko now? Check trails instead of following old guides
The easiest mistake on a first Taroko trip is confusing “the road is passable” with “the trail is open.” Some road sections open at set times according to Highway Bureau notices while adjacent trails remain closed. Finding a place in your navigation app does not mean you can enter its trail.
On the Taroko trail list, Shakadang, Swallow Grotto, the Tunnel of Nine Turns, Baiyang, Eternal Spring Shrine and Zhuilu Old Trail are still marked closed. Leave them out even if an older travel post recommends them.
Taroko Terrace and parts of the Tianxiang area are not all marked closed on the list, but that reflects general conditions, not a guarantee for any particular day. Due to stair painting, the Dekalun Trail had partial-to-full closures from October 20 to 22. This was short-term work, not a permanent closure. Restrictions may expand during typhoons or heavy rain.
If the gorge is your priority, first check whether the Taroko Visitor Center is open, then choose a short route available that day. If the gorge area is closed, spend your time on the coast and in Hualien City. No photo is worth gambling with rockfalls.
Do you need to borrow a safety helmet?
Travelers once borrowed helmets for gorge trails. Ask Taroko National Park which stations still lend them after the earthquake, their hours and which routes they cover. A helmet may stop a small falling stone, but not a major collapse. If you see a closure, change your plans.
Driving Highway 8? Check the opening times first
Post-earthquake repairs continue on Highway 8 between Taroko and Tianxiang. Highway Bureau controls in October 2026 included daytime openings and road-clearing periods, with closure at night; rules were relaxed separately over long weekends. Torrential rain, typhoons or sudden landslides may delay or cancel an opening. Do not build an itinerary around the assumption that you will pass this mountain section by a fixed time.
Check the Highway Bureau’s 168 service and latest Taroko news the day before, again that morning and once more before entering. If the road remains restricted, stay along Highway 9 or head south on Highway 11. The coast is rewarding too; you do not need to squeeze the Central Cross-Island Highway into every day.
Qingshui Cliffs: Hualien’s classic mountain-and-sea view
What stays with you at Qingshui Cliffs is how the mountains seem to fall directly into the Pacific. Sheer slopes rise on one side and open ocean stretches across the other. In good weather, the water shifts with light and depth from turquoise to sapphire and deep blue. Cloudy days add a gray-blue layer and a different mood.
For photos, morning through late morning usually gives sunlight a better chance to reach the water. More importantly, stop only at legal viewing platforms and designated parking areas. There is no need to chase the most dangerous angle you saw online.
The park’s transportation and trail page says that the Chongde Trail is currently open as far as viewing platform 2. Entering from the north portal of Chongde Tunnel makes this one option for seeing Qingshui Cliffs. The English 2-day tour page also lists the second viewing platform. If closure tape is up after a typhoon or heavy rain, stay outside it.
Is stand-up paddleboarding at Qingshui Cliffs worthwhile?
Looking back at the entire cliff from the sea is completely different from standing on a viewing platform, which explains the appeal. This coast faces the Pacific and is affected by swells, wind and designated launch points. A beautiful dawn sky does not mean the water is safe.
Choose an operator working in a legal area with instructors and rescue equipment. Ask whether the trip will run that day, plus cancellation and refund terms. On your first outing, finishing safely matters more than “getting the sunrise shot.” If conditions are poor, enjoy the ocean from land.
How to explore Highway 11: choose the coast, not both east-coast highways
South of Hualien City, Highway 11 passes Yanliao, Jiqi, Xinshe, Fengbin, Shitiping and Jingpu before reaching Changbin and Chenggong in Taitung. You do not need to stop everywhere. The coastline changes from section to section and rewards a slower pace.
The most comfortable approach is to make Highway 11 your main route for the whole day. When you see a view you like, find legal parking before getting out. If a restaurant catches your eye, leave enough time to sit down. Travelers with children or older family members have even less reason to cram every stop into one day.
Keep the 2 roads straight: Highway 11 follows the coast, while Highway 9 crosses the East Rift Valley. Chishang, Guanshan and Luye belong on another day. Switching between both sides in a single day wastes a great deal of time on roads crossing the mountains.
Where should you stop along Highway 11?
- Around the Xinshe rice terraces: Hillsides, fields and sea appear together. View them from legal lookouts and do not enter private fields.
- The coast near Jiqi: A pleasant place to sit where access is open. Follow on-site directions for recreation facilities.
- Shitiping: One of the route’s signature geological sites. Allow extra time.
- Jingpu and the Xiuguluan River mouth: River, sea and Indigenous community meet here. Book a local tour if you want to learn about daily life.
- Sanxiantai: A good late stop on a southbound drive before staying in Chenggong or Taitung.
Supplies are available along the route, but gas stations, convenience stores and restaurants are less frequent than in town. Fill the tank before leaving and carry water and simple snacks. Check whether a restaurant you want is open. EV drivers should confirm charging locations, connector specifications and same-day availability.
Do not brake suddenly on the shoulder when a beautiful bay appears. Some shoulders are narrow and the road has many bends. Find a parking space first and the stop will be much more relaxed.
Shitiping: how did those round holes form?
The East Coast National Scenic Area notes that Shitiping is in Fengbin Township, Hualien, near the 64 km point of Highway 11. Unlike the high Qingshui Cliffs, its rock spreads across the shore, with grooves, holes and undulating surfaces. First-time visitors often wonder how these shapes formed.
The best-known features are potholes. A small depression in the rock traps sand and stones carried in by waves. Over time, abrasion makes the hole wider and deeper. Some hold water like tiny pools, where you may spot algae or intertidal creatures. Photograph them from the side; there is no need to step into every hole or reach in to grab anything.
You can also see wave-cut platforms, sea-eroded grooves and cuesta formations. A walk through the open area shows that waves do not shape every rock alike. They follow strata and fractures, leaving different forms behind.
If you are not rushing, 45 to 90 minutes is about right. Photographers and geology fans may stay longer. Shade is limited, so bring water and a hat in summer and wear shoes with good grip. Wet or mossy surfaces are slippery. During warnings for large waves or swells, stay off the low rock shelves by the sea.
Sanxiantai: the 8-arch bridge is beautiful but under renovation
Continue south on Highway 11 into Chenggong Township, Taitung, and you reach Sanxiantai. Its best-known landmark is the bridge with 1 arch following another. Seen from shore, it leads toward a distinctive offshore island.
The island was once connected to the mainland, but waves gradually eroded the link and separated it. Unlike Taroko marble, the scenic area’s Sanxiantai guide describes volcanic rock such as Dulan Mountain agglomerate. If you have already visited Shitiping, the contrast stands out: landforms can differ greatly within a short stretch of the east coast.
The name “Sanxiantai,” or Terrace of the 3 Immortals, comes from a legend that Lü Dongbin, Li Tieguai and He Xiangu once stopped here. In older local memory, nearby Pisirian is an Amis coastal settlement, and “PiSiLiAng” relates to sheep-herding in the past. Beyond photographing the bridge, it is worth learning about nearby communities and coastal stories.
An East Coast Administration notice says the 8-arch bridge closed for renovation on May 4, 2026, with completion expected by the end of 2027. The bridge is closed during construction, so you cannot walk across to the island. On the mainland recreation area and pebble beach, follow on-site notices to see the ocean and photograph the bridge. Do not plan around the old advice to “cross the bridge and circle the island.” If you only want to view the bridge, allow 30 to 60 minutes; add more time for a meal or overnight stay.
Is sunrise at Sanxiantai worth an early start?
If you stay near Chenggong the night before, watching the sky brighten from an open section of shore makes a peaceful morning. The east coast does not always cooperate: thick cloud or rough seas may hide the light you imagined. If you are staying far away, there is no need to drive over in the middle of the night for the first ray. Stay nearby and go around dawn for a far easier trip.
What should you eat? Discover Amis food along the coast
Many Amis communities lie along Highway 11. If most of your meals are usually in the city, save 1 on this trip for local flavors. Each community cooks differently, but wild greens, pigeon peas, glutinous rice, fish and seasonal ingredients are closely tied to life here.
Jingpu sits near the mouth of the Xiuguluan River. Some local activities bring together the river and sea, fishing methods and community stories. If interested, prioritize tours and meals run by or in partnership with local communities. Ask in advance about group size, dates and weather cancellations.
You do not need to order every dish recommended online. See which wild vegetables, rice dishes or seafood are available that day, then ask the restaurant how they suggest enjoying them. Ingredients change with the seasons, which is part of the pleasure of travel.
When entering a community, ask before photographing people, homes or ceremonies. Enjoy the scenery freely, but respect living spaces. When buying crafts or produce, consider supporting local shops first.
Should you self-drive, hire a car or take a bus?
For the freedom to stop for photos whenever you like, self-driving is best. Highway 11 is long, and extended driving is tiring. Cut 1 or 2 stops in rain, strong winds or poor nighttime visibility.
With older relatives or children, or if you prefer not to drive, hire a car with a driver. When requesting a quote, list your stops, pickup and drop-off points, and approximate hours. “Depart Hualien, visit Shitiping and Sanxiantai, then stay in Taitung” usually involves very different driving time and pricing from “return to Hualien after Sanxiantai the same day.”
Without a car, check Taiwan Tourist Shuttle and local bus services. Departures are less frequent than an urban metro, so do not plan a tight return. During renovation of the 8-arch bridge, some sightseeing routes have also changed stop times; check the schedule on your travel day.
For day 1 at Qingshui Cliffs, staying in Hualien City or Xincheng is convenient. If you plan to continue south the next day, stay in Chenggong or Taitung. This avoids driving the entire length of Highway 11 back at dusk.
How to plan a 2-day, 1-night Hualien–Taitung trip
Day 1 | Qingshui Cliffs, northern Hualien and Qixingtan
In the morning, first check whether the Taroko and Suhua areas are open. If weather and viewing-area conditions permit, see Qingshui Cliffs from a legal open location near Chongde. Travelers interested in the gorge can keep any open visitor center as a backup. Do not treat closed gorge trails as must-see stops.
Return to Hualien City in the afternoon. If time allows, take a walk at Qixingtan, then choose a restaurant for the evening. You will still have options if the weather suddenly worsens.
Day 2 | Highway 11, Shitiping, Jingpu and Sanxiantai
After breakfast, fill the tank and follow Highway 11 south. Stop near Xinshe if something catches your eye, but save a solid block of time for Shitiping. Have lunch around Fengbin, then choose Jingpu or Changbin according to the time, ending on the mainland side of Sanxiantai.
Stay overnight in Chenggong or Taitung for a more relaxed trip. If you must return to Hualien that day, make fewer stops and leave earlier. Driving south and then retracing the route takes considerable time by itself.
With only 1 day, choose the northern or southern section
For an easy mountain-and-sea day: Start in Hualien or Xincheng, visit a legal Qingshui Cliffs viewpoint, then continue to Qixingtan or the city.
For coastal rock formations: Travel from Hualien City to Shitiping, then Jingpu or Changbin, ending on the mainland side of Sanxiantai. This route is especially smooth if you continue to Taitung the next day.
Trying to fit the inner gorge, Qingshui Cliffs, Shitiping and Sanxiantai into only 1 day can leave you in the car all day. Choose the 2 or 3 places you most want to see and spend real time there.
What if a typhoon or torrential rain arrives?
Check road, Taroko trail and coastal recreation-area conditions that day. If you planned SUP, follow the operator’s judgment about the sea. Stay away from low rock shelves and pebble beaches during high waves.
If the coast is genuinely unsuitable, remain in town. Open indoor attractions, exhibitions or cafés are all options. Not every day in Hualien and Taitung needs to be packed with outdoor activities.
How is reception on east-coast roads? Internet tips for visitors
If you are already in Taiwan and have a working local number, you do not need another travel eSIM just for this east-coast trip. If you are arriving from overseas without local data, or a travel companion needs a separate connection, preparing a Taiwan eSIM before departure is convenient. Along Highway 11, you will use it most for navigation, road conditions, gas stations, and contacting accommodations or drivers.
Compare the network, number of days, data allowance and reduced speed after high-speed data runs out. The Taiwan unlimited-data eSIM roams on Chunghwa Telecom and has 2 options on the same page: about 2GB per day followed by about 5Mbps, or about 1GB per day followed by about 10Mbps. Internet traffic exits in Hong Kong or Singapore, not through a native Taiwan IP. The Taiwan fixed-data eSIM includes Chunghwa and a dual Taiwan Mobile/Chunghwa option. The Taiwan daily-data eSIM uses Taiwan Mobile, with about 500MB to 3GB per day and speeds of about 128kbps afterward. Follow the exact plan shown on the product page when buying.
Signals are generally easier to find in towns and settlements along the route. Any network may slow down or disappear temporarily inside gorges, tunnels, behind mountains or on remote stretches of coast. Using cellular towers in Taiwan does not necessarily mean your exit IP is in Taiwan.
One small step is well worth taking: download an offline map of eastern Taiwan the night before, and save your hotel, operating gas stations and emergency contacts. Offline maps help with navigation, but sudden closures still require Highway Bureau updates and on-site signs. Do not put the entire vehicle’s navigation on 1 phone.
Hualien and Taitung travel FAQ
Are Shakadang, Swallow Grotto and the Tunnel of Nine Turns open?
Not yet. They remain marked closed on Taroko’s post-earthquake list. Cars passing nearby do not mean the trails are open.
Are Qingshui Cliffs and Taroko the same attraction?
No. Taroko encompasses the Liwu River gorge and national park mountains, while Qingshui is a sea cliff facing the Pacific. You can visit both on the same day, but check their opening status separately.
How far can you walk on the Chongde Trail?
The transportation and trail page says it is currently open to viewing platform 2. If it is closed on site, do not continue inward.
Can you still visit Sanxiantai?
The mainland side remains accessible according to posted notices. The 8-arch bridge has been under renovation since May 2026, with completion expected by the end of 2027. You cannot cross to the island during this period.
Is a Hualien–Sanxiantai day trip too far?
You can fit in a quick look, but adding Shitiping and a meal makes the day very tight. Staying in Chenggong or Taitung after heading south is much more comfortable.
Is fuel easy to find along Highway 11?
There are gas stations, but they are less frequent than in town. Fill up before leaving Hualien and check whether stations along the route are open.
Is Shitiping suitable for children?
Children can see the rocky shore in safe, open areas. Do not let them run on wet, seaside or cracked rock. Watch the sun, waves and footing.
How do you book SUP at Qingshui Cliffs?
Choose a compliant local operator and ask about the permitted area, instructor, equipment, meeting point and cancellation policy. Whether the trip runs still depends on conditions that day.
Can you reach Shitiping and Sanxiantai without driving?
Check Taiwan Tourist Shuttle and local buses. Your stop times will be constrained by schedules. For many stops, a car with a driver is usually easier.
Which carrier has the best reception in the east-coast mountains?
No carrier covers the entire highway and every gorge. Offline maps and same-day road updates are more useful than comparing carrier names alone.
Slow travel makes the east coast better
On a checklist, Taroko, Qingshui Cliffs, Shitiping and Sanxiantai may all sound like places to park, admire the view and take photos. In person, they are strikingly different: the Liwu River cuts through a gorge, mountains nearly touch the sea, and farther south you find potholes, wave-cut platforms and a coastline intertwined with community life.
You do not need to tick off every stop. Change routes when a trail closes, linger by the sea in good weather and sit down when a small restaurant looks inviting. Leave your schedule loose and you will take in much more of Hualien and Taitung.
