This was a 5-day Kyushu loop through Fukuoka, Kumamoto, and Yufuin—castle walks, Yunotsubo browsing, seafood at Karato, then a big Fukuoka dinner. The pace is food + easy walking, ideal if you want Kyushu without changing hotels every night.
I installed a Jeko eSIM before departure. After landing I enabled data for maps, restaurants, and train times—no SIM swap, no pocket Wi‑Fi brick.
Here’s the overview and transport notes first, then day-by-day detail with searchable restaurant names.
Itinerary at a glance
| Day | Base | Daytime | Evening |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Fukuoka | Arrival / Hakata croissant | Motsunabe |
| Day 2 | Kumamoto | Castle & Josaien | Katsuretsu-tei |
| Day 3 | Yufuin | Yunotsubo, Kinrin, kamameshi | Back or stay |
| Day 4 | North Fukuoka | Mojiko, Karato, Dazaifu | City |
| Day 5 | Fukuoka | Tenjin, beef katsu | Yakuin yakiniku → depart |
Lighter option: one night in Yufuin. Heavy bags: keep Fukuoka as hub and day-trip Kumamoto (~30–40 min Shinkansen).
Transport notes
Airport → Hakata
About two subway stops—usually fine with luggage. Use the airport bus if you have oversized bags or less mobile travelers.
Fukuoka ↔ Kumamoto
Frequent Shinkansen; roughly half an hour. Same-day returns are normal—watch the last train if you head back after dinner.
To Yufuin
Yufuin no Mori is photogenic but sells out; regular limited express works. Book early on holidays.
Mojiko ↔ Karato
A short ferry across Kanmon Strait is part of the outing. Weekends are busier at the market.
Day 1: Arrive in Fukuoka, motsunabe for dinner
After landing, head to Hakata. Fukuoka Airport’s biggest plus is distance: about two subway stops, so you don’t burn half a day on transfers.
At Hakata you’ll often smell butter from the busy baked croissants (il FORNO del Mignon). We still queued after the flight—crispy outside, soft inside; takeaway works if seats are gone.
Drop bags, then dinner: motsunabe (offal hot pot)—soft offal, rich broth, finish with champon noodles. Tenjin has many shops (Rakutenchi, Yamanaka, etc.); choose by the queue.
Tip: it’s a heavy meal. Early Shinkansen tomorrow? Don’t overeat; convenience stores near hotels are a fine backup.
Day 2: Kumamoto Castle + Katsuretsu-tei tonkatsu
Shinkansen to Kumamoto. Clean streets, streetcars, slower pace than Fukuoka. Walk or streetcar from Kumamoto Station; luggage storage helps.
Main stop: Kumamoto Castle. Restoration after the quake is visible; the dark keep feels solid from the walls. Open areas change with works—follow signs. Summers are hot on the slopes.
Climbing up, stone walls explain the fortress logic. There’s a detailed model inside. Nearby park/shrine paths are quieter afterward.
Sakura-no-baba Josaien under the castle packs snacks and souvenirs in a retro street. Koubaian wagashi ice cream is a good cooldown.
