Fact-checked on: October 22, 2026
If this is your first independent trip to Sapporo, you might notice something very interesting: the city is exceptionally easy to navigate. Walking north or south from Odori Park, street signs frequently show names like “North 3rd, West 6th Chome”; looking down straight avenues, street corners follow one after another like a grid drawn on paper.
Walking over to the Former Hokkaido Government Office, the scenery shifts entirely. Red brick walls, dark roofs, and arched windows with a touch of European and American flair make it easy to forget that this was once the site of large-scale national construction projects in modern Japanese history.
However, Sapporo’s story did not begin when the Meiji government walked into Hokkaido with maps in hand. Before this land had its current streets, railways, and government offices, the Ainu people had already been living among rivers, forests, and coasts, building their own languages, beliefs, crafts, and trade networks. The Hokkaido we see today is actually the layered appearance of many different eras of life.
The best way to understand why Sapporo’s layout is so orderly and why the Red Brick Office is so iconic is to turn the clock back more than a hundred years, starting with a river, a city map, and the people who originally lived here.
A Timeline of Hokkaido’s Modern History
| Era | What Happened | Clues to Look For While Traveling Today |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-Meiji | The Ainu people lived long-term in Hokkaido and surrounding regions, trading with Honshu and northern areas | Ainu place names, crafts, and cultural exhibitions |
| 1869 | The Meiji government established the Kaitakushi (Development Commission), renaming “Ezochi” to “Hokkaido” | Sapporo’s city planning and historical sites related to the Kaitakushi |
| 1870s | Sapporo’s administrative center, roads, industrial facilities, and schools were built successively | Odori Park, Sosei River, Sapporo Clock Tower |
| 1882 | The Kaitakushi was abolished, and local administration was reorganized | Transitions in Hokkaido’s administrative system |
| 1886 | The Hokkaido Government was established | The administrative era represented by the Red Brick Office |
| 1888 | The Former Hokkaido Government Office was completed | Today’s Red Brick Office |
| 2025 | The Red Brick Office reopened following renovations | Visitors can enter the building to learn about Hokkaido’s history |
These years are not hard to remember; what makes them truly fascinating is that each year corresponds to changes in people’s lifestyles. How do you find your way around on your first visit? Understand the grid like this: use the Sosei River as the north-south baseline, and Odori Park as the firebreak left behind from those early days. We will explain clearly how these two lines came to be later on.
Before the Name “Hokkaido” Existed, People Already Lived on This Land
Rivers, Forests, and Oceans Once Formed an Invisible Map of Life
To travelers, Hokkaido’s rivers and coasts are scenery, but to the people who lived here in the past, they were vital clues for recognizing seasons and the rhythm of life. When salmon swam upstream, rivers provided food; forests offered plants, timber, and animals; and maritime routes connected people from different places.
The Ainu people sustained themselves through fishing, hunting, gathering, and trading, developing unique clothing, wood carving, oral literature, and rituals. Communities in different locations had their own distinct life experiences rather than a uniform cultural template. Beyond Hokkaido, regions like Karafuto (Sakhalin) and the Kuril Islands were similarly connected to Ainu history.
Place names like “Sapporo” and “Otaru” seen during travels today remind us that this area holds not only road names planned by the modern Japanese government, but also many place names tied to the Ainu language. These names have accompanied the city throughout its life, allowing people to sense an earlier history even as the streetscape changes.
Respect for Nature Hidden in Everyday Crafts and Rituals
Ainu culture frequently refers to “kamuy,” referring to spiritual presences connected to nature, animals, and the surrounding world. This worldview appears not only in religious activities but also in traditional patterns, everyday utensils, and rituals.
For example, at the National Ainu Museum in Shiraoi, visitors can see wooden ritual objects called “inau.” Carved from wood, these elongated wood shavings feature distinct lines. Treating them merely as pretty handicrafts makes it easy to miss their significance in traditional rituals.
The Hokkaido Museum also features permanent exhibitions themed around “The World of Ainu Culture,” slowly introducing travelers to the people behind these objects through everyday artifacts, language, and contemporary cultural transmission. Ainu culture is not just a past left inside a museum; people continue to use, teach, create, and pass it on today.
Honshu and the Northern World Were Connected Through Trade Early On
Before the arrival of the Meiji era, Hokkaido had active exchanges and trade. Interactions between the Ainu people, Honshu merchants, and surrounding northern regions brought furs, fishery products, and other goods into and out of different territories. During the Edo period, the Matsumae Domain played a major role in Hokkaido’s south and this trade relationship.
Therefore, stepping into The Hokkaido Museum reveals not just “how a land was developed,” but how the entire Northeast Asia engaged in exchange throughout a lengthy history. Coasts and river mouths once bustled with commercial activity alongside power imbalances and conflicts; viewing Hokkaido from this perspective adds much more nuance than simply starting the clock with the Meiji government.
1869: A National Project Behind a New Name
Why Did “Ezochi” Become “Hokkaido”?
By the mid-19th century, the world facing Japan began to change rapidly. Overseas vessels brought trade and military pressures, while Russian influence grew active in the north; managing, developing, and securing northern territories gradually became a major agenda for the Meiji government.
The Hokkaido Prefectural Archives note that the Dajokan proclamation on August 15, 1869, renamed the region originally called “Ezochi” to “Hokkaido” and divided it into 11 provinces. In the same year, the government established the Kaitakushi (Development Commission). Viewed today, this might seem like a mere change of characters on a map; to the government of the time, however, it signaled that administrative systems, land management, and national construction directions were all set for a complete overhaul.
A place name change does not make its original residents and culture vanish. For the Ainu people, the land still held familiar rivers and mountain forests; yet over the coming decades, new systems would progressively penetrate daily life. This is precisely why Hokkaido’s modern history is so difficult to tell from a single perspective.
What Did the “Kaitakushi” Actually Do?
The “shi” in the name refers to government agencies responsible for specific missions back then. The Kaitakushi had to manage local administration while promoting settlement, road construction, agriculture, fisheries, and industry. Hokkaido’s climate differed from Honshu’s, featuring long, harsh winters and difficult transportation; establishing large-scale modern industries here demanded immense resources and manpower.
This project also carried clear national defense considerations. The government hoped to solidify northern governance through transportation, administration, and an increased settler population. Railways, roads, farmland, and towns that look entirely natural today were all built and adjusted over long periods.
The Kaitakushi Document Special Exhibition also reveals another side: as land systems and economic activities were re-regulated, the living sphere of the Ainu people shrank, and certain traditional fishing and hunting practices were restricted, including catching salmon in rivers. To incoming settlers, new roads might represent opportunity; to certain indigenous communities, the exact same policies brought difficulties in livelihood and cultural transmission.
Looking back from today’s perspective, this is not about erasing the hardships faced by builders of that era, but rather understanding that the exact same history carried different weight for different people.
Why Does Sapporo Look Like a Checkerboard? The Answer Lies in the Sosei River and Odori Park
A River Becomes the Benchmark for Navigating Modern Sapporo
If you open a map of central Sapporo right now, you will quickly find that most roads are remarkably orderly. Addresses like “North 3 West 6 Chome” are much more regular than winding alleys, making it hard to get completely lost even on a first independent trip.
This urban appearance ties into the decision made during the early Meiji period to plan the administrative headquarters in Sapporo. Sapporo’s urban history records 1871 as the time when the Kaitakushi promoted urban construction, using the Oshima-dori (now Minami 1-jo-dori) and Otomo-bori (now the Sosei River) as baselines. City blocks were roughly one cho square, with sides measuring about 109 meters. The Sapporo Tourist Association’s Otomo-bori page describes this exact subdivision as 60 ken square, which represents the dimensions of this cho.
Imagine drawing two main lines on a blank sheet of paper, then stepping along those lines to carve out blocks, roads, government offices, and residences. The intersections travelers walk across today are the long-term result of this modern planning.
The best place to experience this is not any paid attraction, but standing near Odori Park and the Sosei River, observing how roads extend straight in four directions. Glancing at the map and then at the streetscape makes city design from over a century ago immediately concrete.
Odori Park Was Originally More Than Just a Green Space for Strolling
Today’s Odori Park is an iconic Sapporo destination where travelers enjoy flowers, view the TV Tower, and visit the Snow Festival. However, in the city’s initial layout, it was a wide firebreak designed to separate the government-dominated zone on the north from the commercial and residential living space on the south. Sapporo City records this fire defense line as approximately 58 ken wide, roughly 105 meters.
At the time, the need for building and urban fire prevention dictated the arrangement of roads and open spaces. Years later, as the city expanded outward, this space originally tasked with fire prevention gradually evolved into the familiar park we know today. It is quite fascinating to think about: a wide zone initially left vacant to prevent fires from spreading has now become one of Sapporo’s liveliest gathering places in all four seasons.
Visiting in winter to see the snow festival or resting on a bench in summer gives you a chance to notice the straight roads lining both sides of the park. Sometimes, a city’s history can be read simply by walking without ever entering a museum.
American Consultants Brought Techniques, While Sapporo Took Shape Under Its Own Conditions
When discussing Sapporo’s street planning, many people associate it with American cities. The Meiji government indeed sought technical and construction experience from the United States, inviting Horace Capron, former U.S. Commissioner of Agriculture, to serve as an advisor to the Kaitakushi, participating in resource surveys, agriculture, and transportation development. The Sapporo Clock Tower history page notes that he and technical staff arrived in Japan in 1871.
While Sapporo carries an American modern urban atmosphere, its actual street layout was also shaped by local river locations, fire prevention needs, administrative functions, and geographical conditions. Rather than viewing the entire city as a replica of a specific American city, it is better to see it as the result of Meiji Japan experimenting with new urban living in the north.
Walking the streets of Sapporo with this in mind prevents you from merely noticing that the streets are straight; you begin to understand why government offices, residences, and commercial districts were arranged in this manner.
How Did People Coming to Hokkaido Transform This Land?
Samurai, Immigrants, and Tondenhei: A New Life in the North Was Not Romantic
The Meiji Restoration altered Japan’s old class system, leaving many samurai without their original professions and income. Some chose to head to Hokkaido in search of new livelihood opportunities. Later, the government promoted the Tondenhei (farmer-soldier) system, having soldiers and their families move together to handle military training, security, and defense work alongside daily farming.
Historical records today show road excavation, farmland preparation, and house construction, while allowing us to imagine the hardships of facing snow, cold, and unfamiliar soil back then. Hokkaido’s agriculture, cities, and population distribution did indeed shift step-by-step during this era; yet it did not grow out of empty, uninhabited land. As new settlers built their lives, communities originally living here were forced to adapt to new systems.
Hokkaido’s modern construction often requires viewing two memories simultaneously. It encompasses both the struggles of settlers striving to survive in a harsh climate and the experiences of indigenous groups losing parts of their land use and traditional livelihoods due to national policies. These intertwined stories comprise the complete picture of Hokkaido.
Sapporo Agricultural College Brought Western Education and Agricultural Technology to Life
In 1876, Sapporo Agricultural College opened, becoming an important starting point for Hokkaido University later on. At the time, Japan hoped to cultivate talent familiar with agronomy and modern technology, introducing diverse teaching experiences through overseas educators.
Anyone who has visited Hokkaido University will be familiar with its expansive green spaces and shaded campus trees. Historical exhibits on campus remind us that today’s research university is deeply rooted in Hokkaido’s agricultural and industrial development.
The Sapporo Clock Tower in downtown connects directly to this history. The Clock Tower official website states that when it was completed on October 16, 1878, it served as the martial arts hall for Sapporo Agricultural College, initially featuring only a small bell tower on the roof; the tower clock did not start ticking until August 12, 1881. Encircled by modern skyscrapers today, viewing this white wooden building from across the street offers a glimpse of Sapporo slowly growing from a small modern town.
Hokkaido’s Red Brick Office: A Building Recording the Shift in Administrative Eras
Why Did the 1888 Red Bricks Become a Symbol of Hokkaido?
One of Sapporo’s most captivating historic buildings is the Former Hokkaido Government Office located at North 3, West 6 Chome. Red brick walls glow warmly in the sunlight, while dark roofs and arched windows impart a striking Western aesthetic to the entire structure.
Completed in 1888, Hokkaido had already moved past the Kaitakushi era by that time. The Hokkaido Prefectural Archives note that following the abolition of the Kaitakushi in 1882, local administration was initially handed over to Sapporo, Hakodate, and Nemuro prefectures, while industrial affairs went to the Ministry of Agriculture and Commerce. It wasn’t until the establishment of the Hokkaido Government in 1886 that a new administrative phase began. Consequently, the Red Brick Office preserves the architectural memory of the Hokkaido Government era rather than the earliest offices used by the Kaitakushi.
Having endured fires, restorations, and decades of use, this building remains a highly recognizable part of Sapporo’s urban scenery. Beyond its photogenic exterior, the building itself informs travelers how Hokkaido’s administrative system evolved step-by-step from the early Kaitakushi days.
Reopened in 2025: What Can You See Inside Now?
Following years of renovations, the Red Brick Office reopened on July 25, 2025. The interior features updated exhibitions on Hokkaido’s history, culture, and related displays, alongside spaces for travelers to rest. Anyone interested in Ainu culture, Hokkaido’s development history, and architectural preservation should allocate extra time to step inside rather than just taking photos at the entrance.
The Red Brick Office official website lists general admission at 300 yen, open from 8:45–21:00, with final entry at 20:30. It is closed from December 29 to January 3, alongside scheduled equipment inspection days. On reopening day, July 25, doors opened at 11:00, returning to regular hours starting July 26.
The Hokkaido Prefectural Archives mention that the Kaitakushi once used a five-pointed star symbolizing the North Star as its emblem, a legacy that can still be found on certain related historic buildings today. Spotting these small details overhead adds more fun than simply snapping a front-facing photo.
Want a More Complete Historical Perspective? Four Places in Hokkaido Worth Exploring at Leisure
The Hokkaido Museum: Tracing Everything from Nature and Ainu Culture to the Present Day
Situated near the Nopporo Forest Park area in Sapporo’s Atsubetsu Ward, the Hokkaido Museum is ideal for visitors wishing to understand historical contexts. Permanent exhibitions place Hokkaido back into the geographic and demographic exchange background of Northeast Asia, offering a continuous narrative spanning the natural environment, Ainu culture, and modern Hokkaido’s formation.
If you can only pick one place to grasp the entire context, the Hokkaido Museum deserves a spot near the top of your itinerary. Touring downtown Sapporo afterward transforms many names that were previously just map markers into places with rich backgrounds.
Historical Village of Hokkaido: Strolling Back Through Old-Era Streetscapes
The Historical Village of Hokkaido offers an entirely different experience. This outdoor history village preserves, relocates, and exhibits buildings from the Meiji to Showa eras, ranging from shops and post offices to various residential dwellings, allowing visitors to physically experience historical street scales and building materials.
Rather than reading about “modernization” in books, walking among wooden houses makes it much easier to imagine how people back then worked, shopped, mailed letters, and lived. Also located in Atsubetsu Ward, it pairs well with the Hokkaido Museum on the same day, provided you set aside at least half a day or more.
The Historical Village official website lists hours as: May–September 9:00–17:00, last entry at 16:30, with no fixed closing days during this period; October–April 9:00–16:30, last entry at 16:00, closed on Mondays (if Monday is a holiday, it closes the following day). Closed from December 29 to January 3, but open on Mondays during the Snow Festival. General adult admission is 1,000 yen.
Sapporo Ainu Culture Promotion Center: Exploring Living Culture Around the City
To gain a deeper understanding of Ainu culture, the Sapporo Ainu Culture Promotion Center (Sapporo Pirka Kotan) in Koganeyu, Sapporo’s Minami Ward, is worth adding to your list. The center exhibits clothing, daily folk artifacts, and crafts, while select activities introduce visitors to various facets of traditional culture.
Located away from Sapporo Station, it requires dedicated transportation planning; combining it with a visit to Jozankei Onsen on the same day makes for a smooth route. Sapporo City lists admission to the facility itself as free, with general admission to the exhibition rooms at 350 yen. The facility is open from 8:45–22:00, and exhibition rooms from 9:00–17:00, with last entry at 16:45. It is closed on Mondays, national holidays, the last Tuesday of every month, and from December 29 to January 3.
Shiraoi Upopoy: Dedicating a Day to Ainu History and Contemporary Culture
For those with ample time, visiting Upopoy (National Ainu Museum and Park) in Shiraoi is highly recommended, encompassing the National Ainu Museum alongside various park cultural activities. Here, exhibitions, crafts, language, and performances convey how Ainu culture connects with life today.
Departing from Sapporo, taking the JR to Shiraoi, and walking or using local transit makes it suitable for a full half-day or single-day itinerary. Activities often have scheduled times or capacity limits, with transport details listed on the Upopoy official website.
How to Plan a Sapporo Historical Walking Itinerary: Two Perfect Routes
Route A: First-Time Independent Sapporo Trip, Exploring Downtown in Half a Day
Start around Sapporo Station and head toward the Red Brick Office to admire the architectural exterior and indoor exhibits. Next, stroll toward the Clock Tower, notice the grid layout of the streets upon reaching Odori Park, and walk a short distance around the Sosei River area to observe how the city blocks are arranged.
This route does not require visiting numerous distant attractions all at once, fitting history naturally into a standard Sapporo shopping, cafe, or dining schedule. Wherever you walk, matching your phone’s map with historical photos connects the text you just read directly to real streetscapes.
It is best to treat the Red Brick Office as your primary stop while walking other sections freely; adjust according to daily opening hours if entering various exhibition halls. Sidewalks in Hokkaido can be icy and snow-covered in winter, so avoid rushing just to hit landmarks.
Route B: In-Depth History Enthusiasts, Dedicating a Full Day to Atsubetsu Ward
Head to the Hokkaido Museum in the morning to explore exhibits on Ainu culture and modern Hokkaido; enjoy a simple lunch nearby, and visit the Historical Village of Hokkaido in the afternoon. Although both locations share the same broad area, bus schedules, facility closure days, and exhibition visiting times must be calculated in advance.
If Ainu culture is your primary focus this trip, consider dedicating a separate day entirely to Upopoy. History-related exhibitions generally require slow, careful reading, making it far better to leave yourself ample time rather than rushing through checklist items.
Traveling in Hokkaido: Which Internet Option Is Most Practical?
On historical itineraries like this, mobile phones are most useful during downtime between attractions rather than at the exact moment of taking photos. Looking up the Japanese name of an old building, checking the last bus schedule, confirming temporary museum closures, or locating the next entrance on Google Maps all require reliable mobile connectivity.
Staying mainly within downtown Sapporo for daily map checks, messaging, and occasional photo uploads usually means a moderate total-data or daily-quota eSIM will suffice; however, traveling further to Shiraoi, Otaru, Asahikawa, or remote locations while frequently uploading video warrants considering plans with higher high-speed data allowances. Selection should focus on supported Japanese carriers, daily high-speed quotas, and throttling policies after data exhaustion rather than just seeing the phrase “unlimited.” To read about Otaru’s canals and Wall Street beforehand, continue with The Century-Old Story of Otaru Canal.
Visiting city attractions like the Red Brick Office, Odori Park, and the Clock Tower mostly requires phones to open maps, check buses, and translate Japanese signs at a moment’s notice; having several gigabytes of high-speed data daily provides generous headroom. Streaming video all day or uploading 4K clips to the cloud, however, demands paying close attention to speed-reduction mechanisms after daily high-speed limits are reached. Products labeled “unlimited” still require checking for data thresholds, speed caps, or fair usage policies.
When taking transit in Shiraoi or other rural areas of Hokkaido, saving station and museum names to Google Maps beforehand—especially avoiding Chinese translations alone—makes locating official locations much easier via Japanese names. Should your phone temporarily lose signal on a train or deep indoors, pre-saved offline route screenshots and tickets can save the day.
JEKO offers Japan eSIM plans that allow comparisons based on duration, data volume, and usage habits. Read Comparison of Japan Travel Internet Options to understand differences between carriers and unlimited data. Be sure to save offline maps, tickets, and transit details as well. Signal strength will fluctuate with terrain and crowds when venturing into rural, mountainous, or deep indoor locations. Preparing this way ensures a more relaxed journey.
Hokkaido History and Sapporo Development FAQ
Was Hokkaido Actually Called Ezochi in the Past?
Yes, official documents used Ezochi prior to 1869. The Meiji government renamed it “Hokkaido” via the Dajokan proclamation on August 15, 1869. People had lived on this land long beforehand, possessing their own place names and cultures.
Do Ainu People Still Live in Hokkaido Today?
Yes, and their culture continues to be passed down. The Ainu are an indigenous people who persist today, continuing activities in language, art, crafts, and cultural transmission. Shiraoi Upopoy, the Hokkaido Museum, and the Sapporo Ainu Culture Promotion Center are all places where travelers can learn about related cultures.
Why Is Sapporo’s Street Layout So Orderly?
Because blocks were mapped out using rivers and firebreaks back in 1871. Using the current Sosei River and Minami 1-jo-dori as baselines, blocks were made roughly one cho (109 meters) square, leaving a fire defense line about 105 meters wide in between, which later became Odori Park.
Which American City Was Sapporo Modeled After?
It does not match any single specific American city. While the Meiji government introduced American agricultural and construction experience, Sapporo’s street planning was ultimately determined by local terrain, rivers, and administrative needs.
Was Odori Park Always a Park from the Beginning?
No. During Sapporo’s founding period, this area was planned as a wide firebreak before eventually becoming the park used for walking and hosting events today.
Was the Red Brick Office Built by the Kaitakushi?
It is not the same building. Completed in 1888, the Red Brick Office belongs to the Hokkaido Government era following the abolition of the Kaitakushi in 1882. It shares historical ties with the earlier Kaitakushi Sapporo headquarters, but they are not the same structure.
Can Visitors Go Inside Hokkaido’s Red Brick Office Now?
Yes, it reopened on July 25, 2025. General admission is 300 yen, open 8:45–21:00, with last entry at 20:30. It is closed from December 29 to January 3, with equipment maintenance days posted on the Red Brick Office official website.
Where Is Best Near Sapporo to Understand Ainu Culture?
It depends on how much time you have. Visitors seeking in-depth historical research can start with the Hokkaido Museum; those wanting contact with crafts and cultural activities can consider the Sapporo Ainu Culture Promotion Center; anyone with a full day to spare should schedule Shiraoi Upopoy.
Are the Historical Village of Hokkaido and the Hokkaido Museum the Same Place?
No. Both are located around Nopporo Forest Park in Sappor’s Atsubetsu Ward, but one focuses on indoor historical and cultural displays while the other is an outdoor historic architecture village, making them great to visit together.
Are Sapporo’s Historical Attractions Good to Visit in Winter?
Downtown is walkable, but rural spots require checking opening days first. Snow accumulation and low temperatures slow down walking speeds. Check winter transit and opening dates separately when heading to the Historical Village of Hokkaido or Shiraoi.
Is Car Rental Necessary for a Sapporo Historical Walking Tour?
Not in the city center. The Red Brick Office, Clock Tower, and Odori Park can be connected using public transit and walking. Suburban museums require transfers to JR or buses, meaning rental cars are not the only choice.
Will Using an eSIM Guarantee Signal Across All of Hokkaido?
Not in every single corner. Signal reception is affected by carriers, terrain, indoor/outdoor environments, and peak usage volumes. Check the partner carriers and data specs listed by the product before purchasing, and prepare offline maps for rural routes.
Walking Through Sapporo Is Walking Through a Century of Hokkaido’s Stories
Next time you visit Sapporo, linger for a few extra minutes in front of the Red Brick Office to observe the roof, windows, and brick walls; look further down the straight streets when reaching Odori Park; and if time permits, dedicate a day to hearing the stories of Ainu culture.
You will gradually discover that Hokkaido’s beauty extends beyond snowscapes, flower fields, and seafood. This land preserves the traces of people communicating, building, conflicting, and re-understanding one another. Armed with these stories, the exact same Sapporo street will look entirely different than before.
